KUTCH - Abode to Lesser Known Treasures (Part IV)

Day 8 (28/12/2019)

Route: Bhujodi (9.8 km) - Rann Resort, Khadir Bet (225 km)

Distance Travelled: Approximately 235 kms

After a much needed sleep, we woke up with a new energy to visit the most awaited Bhujodi and Dholavira. Even the girls woke up fresh and energetic. After having breakfast, we headed straight away to the hub of art and craft, Bhujodi.

Bhujodi, a 500 year old village, is a major textile centre in Kutch involved in textile handicraft production. It’s a small village with more or less one straight street with shops lined on either sides. This village is like any other Indian village – rustic with narrow lanes leading to a cluster of houses with mud walls, and freshly painted, colourful doors. The entire village is immersed in the art of one form or other, be it block printing and weaving to tie-dye. The shops have all kinds of handicraft items, including textiles, mirrored hand bags and many more, displayed outside.

Beautifully created shawls

The first shop we stumbled on had a display of beautifully weaved and embroidered shawls. As we walked by, we peeped into the shop and asked, “can we come in?” Like any warm village house we were welcomed in. As we were looking around the owner of the shop informed us that at the back of the shop is his house where the artisan weaves shawls. To our bad luck, the workshop was closed but the artisan enthusiastically explained us the procedure of spinning the cotton into yards of thread, dyeing and washing and weaving. Bundles of threads were lying around in the workshop.

Next we went to a shoe shop. The footwears had the most impressive and colourful designs on them. And that too at a very reasonable cost. Since most of the footwears are made of pure camel leather, I didnt buy them. We walked down the village. From next shop we ended up buying beautiful, bedsheets which were coloured using natural dyes. The designs were simply beautiful and elegant enough for us to buy multiple bedsheets and that too at a supremely reasonable rates. Also we bought beautiful torans for our house and gifting purpose apart from kurtis for ourselves and frocks for kids. The guys had difficult time in selecting and liking kurtas so they decided to buy them from elsewhere.

With our purchases done more than enough by visiting the shops in the villages and their houses, we skipped the big handicraft showrooms. There is something for everyone to be bought at Bhujodi. Each house in this village has a tale of hands creating magic. Some with nimble fingers and some aged with wrinkles, but all excelling in the art passed on by their forefathers to them over centuries. This village is definitely a must visit places in Kutch.

Before heading for the Khadir Bet we decided to have lunch at Bhudia Farm Eatery. Here we ate chats, south indian and icecream whereas elders had thali and everything again was at a very reasonable rate. After filling our tummies, we finally headed for the Khadir Bet where the Dholavira Excavation Site is situated.

The long drive of 225 kms seemed like a never-ending trail. To keep ourselves occupied, we all slept, played on mobile and talked and answered to girls’ queries. Outside, the scenery kept on changing at every turn. As we moved away from the villages, we saw fewer and fewer vehicles accompanying us on the road. At one point we saw a huge canal being constructed which we were told was an extension to Narmada Canal.

On crossing this canal, we saw Nilgais and some camels. The single road on which we were driving was lined with thorny bushes and we could not see any sign of inhabitation for a really long time. I had checked the route on google maps and it showed the route passing through a blue region which was supposed to be water. I wondered about it when I was informed by Raju Bhai that a 9 km road passes through the blue region and is supposed to be the best route in Kutch. I got excited about it. On researching on google I came to know that the blue part is completely covered with water during the monsoon and the Khadir Bet gets completely cut off from the Kutch. As the winter approaches, the water gets dried up leaving behind the white Rann.

Smooth rode passing through the Rann

Finally we reached on a road which had white shining salt desert (White Rann) on both the sides of road. This sight compelled us to just pull out our cameras/mobiles and start shooting the scene which was unveiling before our eyes. It was as pristine white as it could be since very few people pass through this stretch on daily basis. At one point it became

Vast stretch of Rann

difficult to differentiate between the sky and the land and the magnificence of what we were seeing was simply impossible to describe in words. One has to see and experience what we had seen and experienced. Cool December breeze and the magical sight made me want to get down and walk on the white desert. But since it was turning dark, we felt it best to reach our resort on time.

On crossing the Rann, we entered Khadir Bet village which was eerily silent with no one around to even ask for directions. I guess people here wind up early and truly believe in “early to bed and early to rise”. Finally we saw a resort with coloured flags fluttering in the wind. On reading the signage we were relieved to know that we had reached the Rann Resort Dholavira. We entered the coloured flags lined massive entry gates of the Resort. We parked outside the resort and on checking in, we were shown to our Bhungas. The rooms were quite spacious with the wooden roof structure which according to my daughter looked like a sun.

After a much required bath, we headed for a common dining area and had a good tasty food. Girls had a gala time running outside and playing without the fear of any obstacles hampering their play time. After the dinner, the staff ignited a bonfire outside our room and sitting there, enjoying the peacefulness that this place offered was a bonus. There were couple of canines which roamed freely one of which I really liked was named Dhora who was very friendly and enjoyed sitting next to us.

After sometime, the staff informed us about the night walk in the Rann and very excitedly we got up and joined the group. The Rann was right behind the resort and one has to take special permission from the BSF guards. There was a BSF post near our resort and the guard noted the number of people visiting the Rann. The reason for doing so is the close proximity to the Indo-Pak Border. Due to the darkness, the girls started crying not wanting to venture further. So me, siddhi and sanket decided to come back to the bhungas while the rest went ahead with the adventure.

After about 45 minutes, everybody returned from the night walk and after some chitchatting, we called it a night. One thing that I want to add is that from midnight to early dawn, all the lights in the resort are switched off which also includes bathroom lights. This is done throughout the Khadir Bet and is as per instructions of BSF.

Day 9 (29/12/2019)

Route: Dholavira Excavation site (4.5 km) - Fossil Park (26.7 km) - Rann Resort (22.1 km)

Distance Travelled: Approximately 53.3 kms

Rann Resort Dholavira

The next morning we woke up to a mesmerizing view of the Rann and cool breeze laden with unpolluted air. The locals are given place inside the resort to display their handicraft articles and the same can be purchased at a reasonable rates. After having a hot cup of tea and tasty breakfast we headed to explore and understand one of the major cities in the Indus Valley Civilization.

It took us not more than 15 minutes to reach the Dholavira Excavation site. As we entered the premise, we parked in the parking lot and were contemplating about how to proceed. Just opposite to this parking area, in front of the museum we met Jaimal Bhai who has been associated with this place since he was a young boy. He informed us that he volunteered to work on the site with an officer of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). He was beaming with a sense of pride and accomplishment that comes from finding a passion during the archaeological digs and helping the world know the story of Dholavira.

Excavation site of Dholavira

Jaimal bhai advised us to start with the excavation site. We entered a gate and what we saw just took my breath away. A huge structure kind of a tall wall stood magnificently and proudly in front of us. Before we started the tour, Jaimal bhai gave us a small lesson on the history of this site. Dholavira, more than 4000 year old city and one of the largest cities of its time, was discovered by archaeologist JP Joshi in 1956. The excavation did not start immediately but started almost 35 years later in 1990 under RS Bisht of the Archaeological Survey of India. Spread over an area of 100 hectares, this city was occupied from 2650 BCE to 1450 BCE. The city was flanked by 2 seasonal water canals - Manhar on the south and Mansar on the north. An 8 meter thick dam was built to stop the water from these canals and this water was channelized to the 16-17 tanks throughout the city. This city is supposed to be the 1st city which was built solely depending on the concept of rain water harvesting. The entire city has seven different levels which documents the rise and fall of the Harappan Civilization. The city is divided into 3 distinct zones - the Citadel (where the rulers or high officials stayed), Middle and Lower Towns. The digging was stopped few years back by Mr. Bisht in order to preserve the remaining ruins in their original state.

I was so interested in knowing the 7 levels of the city that I referred Mr. Google. Later on, I read the details of the same in the museum. Below are excerpts of the same:

• Level 1 – Ground level. 1st settlers had extensive knowledge about ceramics, cooper working, bead making and had certain principles of city planning and architecture. Construction of challenging fortification around the city. Houses made of moulded bricks of standard sizes.
• Level 2 – Widening of fortification, increase in ceramic use, decorations and quantity of minor antiquities.
• Level 3 – settlement grew into large towns – existing structure was made into citadel and other new structure was known as Bailey. Huge reservoirs were constructed inside the peripheral wall. Massive earthquake caused destruction during this time and the repairing was done with addition to the significant changes in planning. Maximum growth was seen.
• Level 4 – Level 3 city was maintained. Pottery, seals, beads, lithic tools, gold, copper, stone, shell was in abundance. Construction of functional pillars and columns. Scripts were found.
• Level 5 – Decline in maintenance of the city. Continuation in developed items like pottery, seals, etc. Temporary desertion of the city.
• Level 6 – Drastic transformation by incorporation of diverse pottery traditions from sites of Sindh, South Rajasthan and Gujarat. Pottery, Stamps, Seals still remained albeit minor changes in style. Much smaller settlement with different inner layout. Later complete abandonment of the city.
• Level 7 – Closely related to the predecessors as evident by the same ceramic items, new comers constructed circular houses. Urban attributes are conspicuous by their absence. Total deurbanization. Site remained unoccupied thereafter.

Now knowing the history of the site, we were eager to explore the city and absorb the experience and knowledge along with it.

Tank before the city wall

First structure which we saw was a huge tank on the right side just before the city wall. We were told that the tank or the reservoir was built completely by stones and was either used for storing fresh water collected by rain or to store water diverted from the 2 canals. When Jaimal Bhai asked us to touch the stones of these tank we couldn’t understand the reason for doing so but we still listened to him and touched the stones. To my utter surprise the stones were chilled inspite of the harsh sunrays.

City Wall

Moving ahead, we stood in front of the massive wall which was constructed using what I thought was stones aligned perfectly in a line. Jaimal Bhai told us that the wall was 18 meters thick and was constructed using Raw Mud bricks. Whereas in other Harappan cities the walls are made of Baked Bricks. He also informed us that the evidence of raw bricks makes Dholavira much older than other harappan cities. The wall also had a broad parapet which served as a walkway around the wall. It is hard to imagine the amount of work and dedication that took to complete this perfectly aligned wall without any use of machinery.

Circular House Structures

We climbed the wall and entered the city where we saw 2 yellow coloured monolithic pillar standing at the place which led to the citadel part of the city. The purpose of these pillars is not known and the base of the pillar is still under the lower levels which have not been excavated. One can see the remnants of circular houses throughout the Citadel. The houses were divided in to 2 circular parts which may have served the purpose of 2 rooms. We saw several channels lined with stones and at some places covered with stones as well. This we came to know was the most efficient drainage system which can be seen all over the citadel.

Drainage System

Part of the Citadel

Structure for water harvesting

We came across a hole which also had stairs leading down the hole. This was a reservoir which was used for water harvesting. The stairs facilitated the people to go down and clean the tank. The air ducts which were made helped for ventilating these tanks.

East Gate

As we were exploring the east gate, we saw a structure which would have been a part of columns supporting the ceiling. What was special about this structure was the shape and the finishing of this piece. Now a days it’s easy to give stones desirable shapes with the help of machines, but it was difficult to believe that the stone piece in front of our eye was made 5000 yrs back and that too using chisel and hammer. Jaimal bhai told us that there were factories making such columns and remnants of those factories can still be seen.

Base of the Column

North Gate

After understanding and trying to imagine different aspects of the entire place, we walked towards the north gate, which was the most elaborate and imposing gate of its time. From here the entire landscape looked mesmerizing. There were 2 elevated structures lining the sunken passage. This structures looked like some watch-post or something. On the right side of the north gate was a large area with traces of green grass; this was a stadium with walls of multi coloured stones ranging from yellow to dark brown.

10 Harappan Letters

Just near the north gate lies a plank on which a cloth is placed with a replica of inscription with 10 unusually large Harappan letters, which is probably one of the first evidence of a written language. The actual inscriptions are present below plank and are kept in that way to avoid it getting destroyed. Jaimal Bhai told us that the inscriptions were originally placed right above the north gate. Historians are yet to crack the linguistic code in the inscription.

Bath Tub

Later we saw several more structures like bath tubs which had a shower system and a small hole to discard the used water, a chamber which may have been used for a storing different things or could have been a jail (the use of the same is not yet known) and a beautiful well with perfectly laid stones in circular fashion. This well is 30 meters deep though it has not been further excavated. There were signs on a nearby stone which indicates pulley system for drawing water out of the well.

Beautiful Well

One of the five tanks
for water storage & filtering

The last structure which we saw before finishing our trip were 5 tanks next to each other. The purpose of these tanks was not only to store the water but also filter it to a certain extent. There were holes of different sizes which helped water filtration. Also there were steps leading down the tank which helped to clean the silt which was deposited because of the water. One thing was evident that the people of those time were brilliant

Another tank for water storage
& filtering

and inventive enough to wisely plan and construct network of reservoirs and water channels which allowed to successfully harvest the rainwater and channelize the 2 rivulets/canals. The ability to conserve every drop of water in the barren land speaks volumes about the engineering skills of those people.

Dholavira Museum

Still in awe of the mastery of the ancient people we headed towards Museum. This museum further helped us to understand the lifestyle of people during the Indus Valley Civilisation. In the outer room, we saw the entire map of the Dholavira city, photographs which were taken during the excavation, terracotta vases, utensils and storage containers. The collection in the museum is pretty impressive especially the beaded jewellery which is far more beautiful and can win against the modern designers. The seals and weights can also be seen. The inner room contains detailed written information about all the Harappan cities, the chronology of the same and about the lifestyle of the people during those times. The entire tour was eye-opening because we know so little about those times.

Excavated Articles

Jaimal Bhai

It was Jaimal Bhai’s intimate knowledge of this historic site that made our visit to Dholavira so unique. There were lot more aspects of this place which we could not see as it would have taken a lot more time. How I wish I had more time to explore this city even further but due to lack of time we had to bid farewell to this place. This little known Harappan site is a marvelous example of how a township should be planned with precision, water harvesting, water conservation and distribution system, drainage system and much more.

View of the park from the parking area

Post lunch, some of us headed towards another wonder of Khadir Bet - Dholavira Fossils Park. Basically, from 3000 BC we went to see something a little older, well 176 million years older phenomenon. The road to Fossil Park was all dirt and stones. We stopped at a place where the road condition worsened and we started walking through a small road which is flanked by mountain on right side and a beautiful view of sea on the left. We saw something white on the left which appeared to be floating in mid-air. We couldn’t figure out what it was. Soon we reached a concrete area which was apparently parking space for vehicles. There are steps leading down to the Fossil Park and the view was simply amazing. Below our feet were yellow rock-face slopes which extended right to the edge of white Rann which in turn extends till the blue waters of Lake of Kutch.

Jurassic Age wood fossils

We headed down to the fossil park which is in a pity state. There are no boards explaining what we were seeing or gave any kind of information about the Fossil Park in general. There was a glass enclosure towards the right side of the steps which protected the fossilized trees. Not knowing what we were seeing, we headed towards the remaining part of the park. At one point, fallen down and hidden by the rocks, we saw a board with description about this park. Park also known as Jurassic Park of Kutch, was built by forest department and has fossils of 16 million years old tree trunk. During the year 2006-07, one of the guards discovered the fossil tree, which was sent to Vadodara University for examination. When tested there, it was found that this is not a typical tree, this tree is one of the ancient trees of the 16 million year old Asia region. There are several fossil trees, rocks from Jurassic age.

Bhanjano Hills

We walked down the rocks and stepped on the White Rann. Walking on this untouched part, feeling the crunching of salts under our feet, looking at the most serene and bluest water merging with the sky and emerging of Bhanjano Hills out of the waters gives a sense of oneness with the elements of earth. On

Untouched Rann & Colonies of Pelicans

using the telescopic lens of the camera, we finally figured out what we saw floating in the mid-air. We saw colonies of Great White Pelicans swimming in the water and flying low barely touching the waters. Since the colour of the water and the sky were the same and due to the large distance of the colonies of these birds from where we were, it seemed they were stagnant in the air and not moving at all. With a heavy heart and capturing the utopia in our lens we headed towards our abode.

Looking back at the day we spent at Khadir bet, I felt that this place is simply perfect and beautiful in its own way. The region has so much more to offer and yet many places are yet to be discovered and explored.

Day 10 (30/12/2019)

Route: Khadir Bet - Bhuj

Distance Travelled: Approximately 215 kms

We left the beautiful Khadir Bet and headed towards Bhuj. We reached Bhuj early in the evening and we had several hours to kill before we boarded the train. We headed towards Chatthi Bari Road as we wanted to buy some kutchi work saree borders and appliques and kurtas for men. We picked up several saree borders and lots of beautiful embroidered appliques. Also we bought kurta materials as well as ready to wear kurtas for men before heading towards a sweet shop to buy some sweets for my in-laws and office.

Finally we boarded the train after travelling for 9 days (covering almost 1596 kms) and exploring the lesser known places of Kutch. Looking back on the days we spent appreciating the beauty of this land, it can be said that Kutch is a deeper soul of Gujarat that has refused to let go of its old ways.

Kutch is truly one of the most unexplored places which deserves the time to appreciate and experience the barren beauty while exploring hidden gems along the way. Kutch is an enticing land, which has remarkable history, unique palaces and forts, Great Rann of Kutch, traditionally dressed folks, villages with bhungas, some of the most beautiful handicraft, delicious and lip smacking food and of course the simplicity of the entire region. One thing I can say for sure is that Kutch is not restricted to only highly publicized Raan Utsav but it is way beyond that.

Special thanks to Raju Bhai for driving extraordinarily and continuously for many days and taking us to places with a big smile on his face. Also special thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Bhanushali for being an amazing host. Last but not the least, entire family (Atul, Siddhi, Sanket, Maa, Baba, Atya and our angels Myra & Avira). I must mention that the girls, inspite of continuous and long distance travelling, never complained and enjoyed to their fullest making this trip possible for us to enjoy.

Our Entire Gang without whom the trip would not be have been enjoyable

PC: Sanket Waikar & Atul Madiwale (and myself 😊)