KUTCH - Abode to Lesser Known Treasures (Part II)

Day 4 (24/12/2019) 

Route: Tera (14 km) - Chhatardi of Bhuj (91.5 km) - Aina Mahal (1.7 km) - Swaminarayan Temple (1.2 km) - Chadura (94.2 km) 

Distance Travelled: Approximately 200 kms 

The day started with a view of a gorgeous peacock perched on a tree looking as majestic as ever. The morning was comparatively colder than the previous days; yet we felt energetic and ready to start our journey. 

Intricately designed door

We headed for yet another lesser explored places - Tera, a charming heritage village situated in remote Abdasa Taluka. Being remote and not on any tourist maps, it was little difficult to find this place. On reaching there, we realised that we were the only tourists here; we really felt happy about it. The houses are very old and has beautiful and intricately designed arches around the doors and windows. I thought that these houses were unoccupied but when a lady welcomed us in her house we were pleasantly surprised. There are people staying in these beautiful houses. We thanked the lady and went ahead exploring this amazing village. We even saw couple of beautifully posed majestic peacocks. While roaming, I suddenly realised that this village, like Lakhpat, was safely nestled within a grand fortress with an imposing fort wall dressed in stones. There are no guides or boards giving any kind of information about this village, so I searched for some information on internet. 

 

Beautiful & Intricate pattern

Old Residence

Tera Fort Walls

Tera was founded by the ancestry of Jadeja and Sumara Kings, about 500 years ago. Most of the present structures were however built by Rao Deshalji (1819 – 60). He had also granted Tera as a jagir of 41 villages, and was one of the largest jagirs of Kutch. Tera village has a glorious past with temple, grand buildings and places of worship, some of which are 150-200 years old. Once a Rajwadi village, Tera has been home to diverse communities, some of which are known for entrepreneurial activities. According to a popular belief, the village was called Tera because it was sold for tera (thirteen) thousand koris. Tera is also known for attaining its status as the first heritage village of Gujarat through the initiative of the Grampanchayat and Tera Gram Vikas Parishad, making it an example for the others to follow. 

One of the 3 lakes

Going ahead, we came across 3 huge Manmade Lakes. We sat here for sometime enjoying the quietness that this place offered, watching birds like Red Wattled Lapwing and Lesser Pied Kingfisher sitting and basking in the sun and small turtles surfacing every now and then. The difficult task was to keep the girls away from the water as they wanted to dip their legs in the lake. On reading about these lakes i.e. Chhatasar, Sumarasar and Chatasar, I came to know that they are fascinating example of traditional water management systems. Rainwater collected from the hills about 15-20 kms away is brought to the village through a small canal. It flows first into the Chhatasar whose banks are sealed against erosion and the bed against percolation. The water from this lake gets filtered through a wall on the opposite end and flows into Sumarasar. When this gets filled up, it automatically flows into Chatasar and eventually into the river Tera. This interlinking and sequential filtering of rain-water is remarkable. The use of the three lakes was segregated into bathing and washing clothes, for animals, for drinking and other needs respectively. 

Cracks in the fort wall

Like the previous places we visited, this fortress was also damaged in the earthquake, the cracks in the fort wall can still be seen. While returning to our bus, my sister-in-law insisted having Dabeli. We stopped near the 1st hawker we saw and thanks to her we got to eat the most yummilicious Dabeli. After that we saw a shop (Soneji) displaying bandhani and ajrakh dupattas, sarees and dress materials. We decided to just ask the prices and move ahead. However on entering and inquiring about the prices, we couldn’t stop ourselves from buying dupattas, dress materials, sarees and even kurtis for the girls. All in all, Tera is a complete package of artistic carvings, architecture and handicraft. 

Since the other places were in Bhuj itself, we decided to have lunch at Rata Talav. Post lunch, we went to the Royal Cenotaphs of Bhuj – Chattardi. Chattardis are basically tombstones that do not contain the mortal remains of that person and they are built as a tribute to their greatness. 

Chattardi of Rao Lakhaji

A small board which said ‘Open from Sunrise till Sunset’ welcomed us and led us through a small park. First thing that we saw were the broken chattardis with the pieces lying here and there. This was due to havoc caused by the 2001 earthquake. Though they were lying in the broken state, they were still beautiful. We moved towards the central chattardi which was almost in a complete state. As per the only board which we saw, Chhatardis of Bhuj were constructed in the 18th Century for the Jadejas, the former royal family of Kutch. Chattardis, built with red sandstone, had umbrella shaped domes and beautiful, ornate pillars. The 1st chattardi where we were was the largest and most outstanding and was built for Rao Lakhaji.

Sculptures inside
Rao Lakhaji's Chattardi

On entering, we were amazed by the semi damaged beautiful sculptures of the deities and people in local costumes. The structure used to be covered with a roof with intricate carvings but currently they lie scattered around the tombstone. In the center, sits the tablet of the king himself with 15 of his consorts. It is said that when Rao Lakhaji was killed in a war, his 15 wives committed Jauhar (mass self-immolation by women to avoid capture, enslavement and rape by invaders). 

Blue Domed Chattardi

We also saw a chattardi with beautiful blue coloured dome with jewelled work. As we moved around, appreciating the beauty of these monuments, we saw a chattardi being rebuilt. This was clearly evident from the difference in colour of the stone used. Closer examination revealed the designs and intricate carvings engraved bearing floral patterns, figurative depictions of equestrians and weaponry. Due to lack of time, we had to leave but would definitely would want to come back and spend more time here. The Chhatardis are a testament to the skill of the Kutchi artisans and despite the 2001 earthquake, its glory still shines through. 

Rebuilt intricately designed chattardi

Ornate designs on chattardi

Rani Ka Vas (Part of Aina Mahal)

With that thought, we left for Aina Mahal, built in 1750 AD by Rao Lakhpatji. Aina Mahal and Prag Mahal are both located in the same campus. As soon as we entered the campus, we saw local handicraft shops selling beautiful kutchi handwork articles right from clothes to chappals to home decor. It was very sad to see Aina Mahal in a depleted condition (due to 2001 earthquake). Opposite to Prag Mahal, is the Queen’s Residence or Rani Ka Vas which has retained its grace even in its state of ruin. Looking at the ornate balconies, I could only imagine, how beautiful and grand this place must have been. We proceeded towards the only section of Aina Mahal which remained intact. Now converted into museum, there is an entry fee for visiting and additional fees for photography. 

Immediately on entering, we saw a long scroll (easily more than 20 feet long) painting known as Nagpanchami Ashwari Scroll, which depicted a royal procession of Maharao Pragmalji held annually on nagpanchami. Some of the chariots and palkis depicted in the scroll are displayed alongside. There is a huge collection of European things like chiming clocks, glassware, ceramics, weapons, furniture etc. Apart from this, there were lot of paintings (some of which are reverse paintings) depicting the courts and portraits of the royals of Kutch. One painting which I really liked was of Mastani. Doorways lead to rooms, many of which are shut, but the doorways itself are a work of art to behold. 

Other room which I really liked was Fuvara Mahal (Pleasure Hall). Being a patron for dance and music, Pragmalji got this room constructed solely for this purpose. There is a raised podium (which served as a stage) in the center of the room. This centre stage is surrounded by a moat with fountains installed in it. Podium is surrounded by mirrors on all sides which would reflect the candles, diyas and chandeliers that were lit up on the night of a performance. Also, there are a lot of old instruments that are displayed here. Performing on the center stage with fountains dancing to the music and lights illuminating the room would have been such a magical experience for the artist. 

Swaminarayan Temple

Not having time to see Prag Mahal, we headed directly towards Swaminarayan temple. It is said that during 2001 earthquake, the earlier temple was completely destroyed however the idols survived the catastrophe. The same idols are installed in the new temple made of marble and gold. The throne of Swaminarayan, the domes of the temple and its doors are made of gold, whereas the pillars and the ceilings are in marble giving it a grandeur look. The temple also has idols of Radha Krishna, Ganesha and other gods. There are more than 200 pillars in this temple and each pillar has carving which was different than the others. Each pillars were carved with some stories, animals, floral designs, etc. Kids got engaged in identifying different carvings on the pillars. Meanwhile rest of us experienced beautiful sunset which glorified the beauty of this temple. Having experienced the tranquility that this temple offered, we headed for the streets of Bhuj to relish the street food. 

We indulged in some street food in the Bhuj Market. From Dabelis to Chaat to Maggii to some freshly brewed tea. The street lights up with a flurry of stalls lined at the roadside. After stuffing ourselves, we headed back home to get some sleep and be ready for the coming day. 

Day 5 (25/12/2019)

Route: Vijayvilas palace (79.9 km) - Mandavi Beach (4.3 km) - Chadura (80 km) 

Distance Travelled: Approximately 165 kms 

Since today’s itinerary consisted of only Mandavi, we decided to start late. As soon as we entered Mandavi, we saw wooden ships or “dhows” lining the banks of the dry beds of the river Rukmati. This was a 400 year old Ship building yard that is still functional. Due to lack of time we could not visit this place but from what I read, one can visit the “dhows” during the daytime, when craftsmen build functional Dhows in much the same way that their ancestors had done a century ago. The process is supposed to be long and elaborate; if the ships are not made properly than that would mean risk to sailor’s life. Boards must be painstakingly crafted, planed and fitted by hand, for a watertight fit along the long curves of the hull line. 

We headed towards Vijay Vilas Palace which took us through the picturesque town of Mandvi with many old buildings. The coastal town of Mandvi, located at the point where the Rukmati River meets the Gulf of Kutch, was one of the major ports in the Kutch region. This small port city was established during the late 16th century by the first Jadeja ruler, Rao Khengarji I. Originally it was a fortified town with several gateways, but at present, most of the wall has disappeared. 

Canopy of trees on the way to Palace

Finally we reached Vijay Vilas Palace. At the entrance, we bought the tickets for entry and photography. We walked through well-laid gardens with a paved pathway before seeing majestically standing palace. The palace has sprawling ground with huge fountains where we saw few birds having a gala time chirping, drinking water from the fountain while enjoying the breeze. 

Vijay Vilas Palace was built in the year 1929 by the Maharao of Kutch, Mr. Khengarji the 3rd as a summer resort residence for the royal family. The palace was named after his son Vijayrajji. On the demise of Vijayraj Ji in 1948, a Chhatri was built in the same campus. The palace architecture is a mix of Rajput and Victorian architecture. The features of the palace include domes, intricately carved Jharokhas, Jalis, Chhajjas. Etc. Artisans from Rajasthan, Saurashtra and Bengal were commissioned to work on the Palace, including Mistris and Suthars from Kutch, all of which strived hard and dedicatedly build this beautiful palace. 

Majestic Palace

We started with the ground floor, exploring the space, the corridors and getting a sneak glimpse into what life must have been like back in the day. This floor is basically a mini-museum displaying gifts & souvenirs and hunting trophies. Royal paintings adorn the walls along with pictures of many dignitaries. Various taxidermy mounts of wild animals and photos from hunts bear proof of the royal family’s hunting expertise. Due to lack of information about the history of palace within the palace itself, we asked the caretaker about the same. He started telling us snippets from the years gone by about the palace, King, his fondness for hunting, etc. He then gave us a tour showing various rooms like Living Room, Drawing Room, Dining Room, Library (open for public viewing) and gave us information about the photographs and history behind each one. Dining room was particularly fascinating with a dining table having a great combination of white and black colors and this makes it look more luxurious and charming. I loved the tiny intricate windows through which cool sea wind passes out. He also told us that the surviving royal family used to reside in the Prag Mahal before 2001 Earthquake. Since Prag Mahal got destroyed they moved to Vijay Vilas Palace. Currently the royal family resides in Mumbai at Napean Sea Road; however they still come to this palace intermittently. The palace has featured in many Bollywood films including “Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam” and “Lagaan” and there are many photographs of the same. 

Terrace (chajja)

Climbing up a spiral staircase, we reached what we can call a terrace with a residing place in the middle of it prohibited to the visitors. The terrace has small gazebo like structures in the 4 corners and 4 sides with jali like windows offering view of the surrounding. The kids had a gala time playing here. There was another higher balcony which was accessible by a wrought-iron spiral staircase. The view from here was simply mesmerizing with scenic surroundings, the forest and the beach. 

Sprawling gardens around the palace 

Top most chajja & wrought-iron
spiral staircase

More than the beauty of the palace, I was impressed by the silence and the unpolluted atmosphere. Intricately carved jaalis, balconies, coloured glasswork, marble fountains and massive grounds make it a wondrous place to wander around this is what makes it worth visiting. 

Before heading towards the beach we decided to have lunch in Mandvi town. The elders decided to eat at Osho Dining Lodge, situated on the 1st floor of a building. This place is famous for Gujarati Thali. Remaining 4 of us with the kids decided to eat at street side hotel which serves local delicacies. We had mandavi chaat and dabeli and chaas to complete our lunch. Post lunch while walking around the small lanes of this town we saw a shop selling purses and pouches at a wholesale rate. The purses were too good to ignore and we ended up buying purses for ourselves and as souvenirs for family and friends. 

Camel Ride at Mandvi Beach

Finally we headed to Mandvi beach, typical tourist destination with camel and horse, food stalls and crowd. Here water sports are available as well. My daughter wanted to sit on the camel so my husband and sister in law accompanied her, they all had a blast. On reaching the beach, we had difficulty finding a secluded, quiet patch where kids can enjoy. We finally managed to find a spot which was

Secluded spot on Mandvi Beach

clean and peaceful with a splendid view of the clear blue water. After playing in the sand for some time, we took the girls in the water. They had great time jumping, sitting and playing in the waves. Just after the sunset, we decided to take girls for a quick shower, boarded the traveller and left for Chadura before getting stuck in the traffic. My advice, it’s OK to skip this beach as this beach pretty much resembles the Juhu beach of Mumbai. 

Finally we reached Chadura, planned the next day and decided to call it off.