KUTCH - Abode to Lesser Known Treasures (Part I)

Kutch… When you hear this word, immediately you think of Great Rann of Kutch and wild asses running on the white land. But is Kutch limited to Rann and wild asses only??? No… Kutch is much more than that. It is a storehouse of lot of unexplored places which I feel are the true treasures of Kutch. 

When we started planning to explore Kutch it took us lot of time to shortlist the places as Kutch has numerous places of historical and mythological significance, has many forts, beaches, artisan villages, etc. We went through number of travel blogs and websites and also talked with different people and finally we were ready with our itinerary. One thing that I realized was that this region is impossible to explore in just few days as extensive travelling is involved.

Before heading towards the actual travelogue, let me share some details about Kutch in general. Kutch, a geographic phenomenon, edged by the Gulf of Kutch and Rann, can be described as seasonal island. During the dry season, the Rann is a vast expanse of dried mud and white salt. During monsoon, seawater and river water floods this area. The salt in the soil make this area almost completely barren. There are coarse grass jutting out intermittently, providing food for the wildlife. The entire region has endless straight roads, barren soil, blue skies and thorny bushes. The monotony is broken by small villages with its rich heritage art forms, houses with colorful doors, big horned cows, traditionally clothed locals and Gujarati thalis. 

In 2001, a massive earthquake destroyed several villages and monuments leaving behind rubble. However, the determination of the local people have made it possible to rebuilt their lives and open the doors once again to the visitors. Though the reminiscence of the earthquake can be seen everywhere.

Now let us start the beautiful journey to the vibrant Kutch. 

Day 1 (21/12/2019): Train journey from Dadar to Bhuj. 

Finally the day came when I was on my way to explore yet another part of our country. I was as excited as ever to embark this beautiful journey with my entire family. 

We boarded 3 pm train (Dadar Bhuj Express) from Dadar Western. The girls (Myra and Avira) had a gala time climbing up and down the berths. Other than that, the journey was uneventful.

Day 2 (22/12/2019) 

Route: Bhuj - Rata Talav (8.7 km) - Pingaleshwar Beach & Temple (89.6 km) - Chadura (41.4 km)

Distance Travelled: Approximately 140 km

The train reached Bhuj on time. All of us were hungry and being in Gujarat, we wanted to have jalebi fafda for breakfast. Our chauffeur and owner of tempo traveller, Raju Bhai took us to this amazing stalls, Khavda Ganthiya Centre & Vandana Poha Centre, on Chatthi Bari Road. 

On our way we saw a man-made lake known as Hamirsar Lake. This 450 year old lake, named after Bhuj Rao Hamir, is the largest manmade lake in Kutch region. In ancient times, the primary purpose of this river was to fulfill the domestic needs of Bhuj. The water system (channels & tunnels carrying water from 3 rivers), damaged during 2001 earthquake, are again functional since 2003 thanks to the municipality and the people of Bhuj.

On reaching the stalls, we relished the delicious Fafda, Jalebi and Poha and Masala Chai. What more could I have asked for!!! With our tummies filled, we headed for our 1st pitstop i.e. Rata Talav. 

The road to Rata Talav is scenic with vast expanse of barren land and rows of giant windmills standing erect with blades performing in the tune of wind. It was amazing to see the humongous windmill up-close. We reached Rata Talav Bhanushali Dharamshala, a quiet picturesque place, is surrounded with several trees and tall mountains. Dharamshala has decent rooms to stay in, has a small temple and a beautiful lake. Before freshening up, we decided to spend sometime near the lake, dipping our legs in chilled water and enjoying the serenity of the place. Both girls had a gala time dipping their legs and splashing water everywhere, eventually getting half drenched. After freshening, we went to the dining hall. Behind the hall, cooks were prepared rotis and bhakris on traditional chulha. We ladies helped in rolling the dough and cooking the rotis, whereas girls applied desi ghee on it. The food prepared here was amazing served with fresh makkhan (unsalted white butter). Post lunch, both the kids played in the garden, made sand castles and enjoyed playing in the soil uninterrupted.

Kids enjoying the cold water     

Cooking on Traditional Chulha

Next we visited Goshala, a place where thousands of cows, irrespective of whether they are healthy or sick, are taken care of. Concrete structures have been constructed to provide spacious home to these cows. Cows & Bullocks arrive here from several villages spread across Kutch & care is taken to serve & save each of them. The trustees of this place have given thousands of these cows to unemployed people to facilitate them to earn on their own. Best thing about this goshala is that even the sick, weak and handicapped cows are taken care of instead of putting them down. 

Secluded & Surreal Pingaleshwar

Next we headed for Pingaleshwar Beach, a secluded and surreal beach, nestled away from the chaos in middle of nowhere. Being a lesser known tourist destination in Kutch, makes this beach more appealing and inviting. This beach had clean golden sand, rocky pools and clean turquoise blue water. We walked towards water, stepping carefully on the slippery rocks and enjoying the sound

Hurrah!!!

of sea. We did not enter the water as this beach is known for turbulent waters. Both the girls had a great time running, jumping and playing in the sand (accompanied by my husband and sister in law), filling their shoes with sand, hiding their feet/hands in the sand. Rest of us just sat and enjoyed the view of the sea, fragrance of the freshness, the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks, chirping of the birds and giggling of the kids. It is here where we saw the 1st sunset of many in Kutch. It was mesmerizing to see the sun setting in the water, making the water appear golden and painting the sky with different hues of yellow, red and orange. 

Mesmerizing Sunset

Before heading out, we visited Pingleshwar Temple, which was at a walking distance from the beach. This one of a kind temple of Shiva is colorful unlike the other Shiva temple which are normally plain, uncolored structures. This temple is set against the backdrop of the sea and tall trees. Behind the temple, we saw nests of Ibis and Cranes while enjoying the music created by various birds.

From here we headed towards a small village Chadura (near Naliya town), which was our abode for next few days. On reaching there, the first thing that we did was to have a hot water bath. After bathing and making our beds, we went to a small hotel (Sheetal) at Chaduraphata for dinner. The food was really yummy. Night was getting cold. Finally after a long long day, we retired for the night. 

Day 3 (23/12/2019) 

Route: Narayan Sarovar (64.8 km) - Koteshwar Temple (1.6 km) - Lakhpat (35.2 km) - Mata No Madh (41.1 km) - Chadura (42.6 km)

Distance Travelled: Approximately 185 kms

After a much needed sleep, we woke up to the view of a rustic village which was simply beautiful. After a hearty breakfast we went for a quick village tour. This village consists of around 100 houses, some of which are proper well-constructed bungalows while remaining are typical small houses with veranda. We saw a small lake and couple of old temples in this area. 

Narayan Sarovar Vishnu Temple

We headed towards Narayan Sarovar, located almost at the westernmost tip of India. Enroute to this place, we saw two extreme land conditions – initially the barren scrubland of Kutch which then opens to the welcoming site of water on both the side of the road towards the end. The entire complex has many temple, but we decided to go to the main temple only. The small lanes are lined with various shops selling mojris, bags, jewellery and even small toys. Luckily, unlike other tourist places all over India, no one hovers around you, pestering you to buy things. The premises of the Main Temple dedicated to Lord Vishu was clean, had comparatively less crowd and definitely less noisy.

At the backside of this temple, lies one of the five holy lakes of Hindus. According to the legend, during the Puranic Era, this area was hit by a drought and many people suffered and died. To put an end to it, the sages prayed fervently, causing Lord Vishnu to appear and touch the land with his toe. This is believed to have created this holy lake. Though considered as sacred, I would recommend not to dip your legs or take water in hands as the lake is not well-kept, has lot of algal growth and emits foul smell. 

Not wishing to spend time near the lake, we headed towards a hall on the opposite side of the temple where food is served to the devotees. The menu here is fixed and very simple with Roti, Rice, Dal, vegetable & buttermilk. After resting under a huge banyan tree for some time we headed for next destination.

Magnificent Koteshwar Temple 

Koteshwar Temple, an ancient temple of Lord Shiva, is situated at the dead end of the land mass and overlooks the Kori creek. This creek is practically a shallow sea due to Tidal difference and being shallow it has become marshy. Since this temple is the last point of land, and due to its proximity to Indo-Pak border, this temple is heavily guarded by BSF. There is a checkpoint at the entrance of the temple premises.

Jetty extended in Kori Creek

Before entering the temple, we decided to take a stroll in the premises. Towards the right side, lies the marshy coastline with birds coming to feed on small fishes or mud skippers. Towards the left lies the sea looking as calm as possible. And right ahead is an old original temple of Lord Shiva. It is said that this temple was considered to be one of the 12 revered jyotirlings. But in the current list, this temple is not mentioned. Beyond this is a small jetty, on the either side of it are unused / seized boats, some of which had tricolor flag. From here the sea looked quite gloomy and hostilely silent.

Sacred Tree adorned
with Bindis & Bangles

As soon as I turned around to face the new temple of Koteshwar, I was awestruck by the magnificence of the sand coloured temple, rested on a high platform and bounded by stone wall to protect damage from constant water splashing. We climbed three flights of steps to reach the porch which has writing on the left side of the gate mentioning details regarding this temple. sacred tree which is covered with bindis of all sizes and in all shades of red, with the odd set of glass bangles. The bangles and the bindis are offerings by women to bless their married life. Built in 1820, the temple has 3 domes – a large beautiful brass bull rests below the central dome, whereas Hanuman & Ganapati rests under the remaining 2 domes. The Svayambhu Ling is at the far end of the main shrine. There are many stories / legends regarding these beautiful temple and the same could be read on the board near the temple. Have penned down some excerpts below:
Right in front of this gate lies a

• According to one story, Lord Shiva gives a Linga (full of powers) to Ravana for exceptional devotion with a condition of not placing the Linga on the ground. Afraid of these powers bestowed on Ravana, all the Devas conspire against him. One of the Devas turns himself into a cow and pretend to get stuck in the deep sludge while other disguises as a saint and requests Ravana to rescue the cow. Ravana being a son of Bhramin, obliged, placed the Linga on the ground and rescued the cow. After rescuing, he couldn’t pick the Shiv Linga again as he had broken the condition laid down by Lord Shiva himself. This Shiv Linga came to be known as Kotilingeshwar which now is known as Koteshwar. 

• As per the other version, Ravana became immortal and extremely arrogant on receiving the Shiv Linga as boon from Lord Shiva himself. On accidentally dropping the linga at Koteshwar. Lord Shiva got angry and punished Ravana for his carelessness. The linga turned into thousands of identical lingas. Unable to identify the original linga, Ravana grabbed other linga and went to Lanka. The original linga remained at Koteshwar, around which the temple was built.

Knowing the legends / stories behind the particular monument is always fun, but what makes it memorable is the time spent here; soaking the beauty and magnificence of the structure created. Not overrun by tourists, this temple is definitely a must visit place in Kutch. 

Our next destination was one of the lesser known treasures of Kutch – Lakhpat Fort. About 40-45 kilometers before Lakhpat, I saw a large board displaying “Tropic of Cancer is passing from here”. I had read about this imaginary line only in geography books during school days! It was quite exciting. Beyond this line, for as far as my eyes could see, I saw stretches of barren land interspersed with dry thorny scrub and some grass blades bravely spurting from the arid and saline clay desert land. I couldn’t see any civilization nor any vehicles, until we reached the destination.

Welcome to the Ghost Town
(Lakhpat Fort)

Feeling excited to reach extreme north-west and looking forward to get down and explore the area on foot, we entered the gate. On entering, we saw a small town where people reside; it’s a place where Muslim mosques and tombs exist alongside the temples and the Gurudwaras. The entire town is enclosed by 7 km long fort wall built in 18th century. Though the fort is in a ruined state with the fallen gates, broken and battered walls, it tells us the story about the endurance of this majestic world which now rests in its unruffled glory.  

Battered yet intact fort walls

Lakhpat literally means the city of millionaire, a town with a daily revenue of 1 lakh Kori (former currency). The waters of Sindhu River used to flow into Lakhpat which helped the rice cultivation and Lakhpat used to give an annual revenue of 800,000 Koris just from rice. Also Lakhpat used to generate an income of 100,000 Koris every day from maritime activities. The 7 km long fort walls was erected to protect this city of millionaire by Jamadar Fateh Muhammed in 1801. After the earthquake of 1819, the area became barren and the crops withered away due to lack of water as the river Sindhu disappeared after the quake. Thus Lakhpat lost its importance as a port.

View of Rann beyond the fort

We got down near the far end of the fort and scrambled through the eroded stairs to reach atop the bastion wall. The view of vastness of salty marshes upto the horizon and the water body far beyond was captivating and it felt that I had reached in a different world. I saw a small temple in the middle of nowhere and it looked very familiar. On searching on google, I got to know that this temple was shown in a movie named Refugee; part of the movie was shot in this particular fort.

Massive gate separating
Rann from village

Also the fact that the Pakistan border is only 35 kms from where I was, made me feel intrigued. We walked on the wall for some time and got down near a gate which probably served as a backdoor to the desert beyond the wall. I and Baba went through the gate where we saw a ladder separating the fort from the desert beyond. I crossed this ladder and what I saw was simply astonishing.

Tempting White Rann

The view of the white land uninterrupted. It was very tempting to go a little further and just stand on the white land but I knew it would be wrong to do so as the area was prohibited. At this point, I couldn’t imagine how difficult would it be to keep an eye on any unwanted intruders and how wonderful job the BSF jawans are doing. Salute to them.

Gurudwara

Later we visited the Gurudwara Pehli Patshahi (Gurudwara of the 1st Master), an unconventional structure with a row of thatched roofed houses instead of regular domed structure. The Gurudwara is declared as a protected monument by the state archaeological department and has won the UNESCO award for restoration after the earthquake. Covering our heads and washing for hands and feet, we entered the Gurudwara where we read about the importance of this particular place. Guru Nanak, the first Guru of the Sikh faith, is believed to have travelled the entire Indian continent seeking wisdom and sharing the same with the people he met. 

Seva by girls

These travels were known as Udasis (detachment from wordly possessions while seeking wisdom). It is believed that he had undertaken 4 Udasis in his lifetime and had passed through Lakhpat during his 2nd and 4th Udasis. Gurdwara Guru Nanak Sahib has been built to preserve the memory of these visits of revered Guru during the early 1500s. Guru Nanak is believed to have visited this site while he was on his way to Mecca during the Fourth Udasi. We saw few rare possessions which are retained here like Guru Nanak’s Khadavas (wooden footwear), palkhi and few manuscripts. This place also has Yatri Niwas and Langar Hall. We had some tea over here and our little girls rolled the dough to make rotis and contributing there share in the Seva.

We came in this ghost town to see the fort and the rann beyond, but what I saw was the world of its own. 

Before heading back home, we visited the famous Mata No Madh Temple, the temple of Ashapura Mata who is revered as the principal deity of Kutch. The photography within the premises was prohibited so we couldn’t click the photographs on this very beautiful, intricately designed temple. The idol is said to be a Swayambhu (self-existing) with 7 pairs of eyes which are made of gold. The idol is a red coloured stone about 6 feet high which somewhat resembles the human form. We asked the pujari about the importance of this temple. This is what he said. She is a deity who fulfils the wishes & desires of her devotees. The temple was built in 14th century by 2 ministers of the court, Ajo and Anagor. This temple had been destroyed twice by 1819 and 2001 earthquake and was rebuilt both the times. As per one of the legends, about 1500 years ago, a person from Marwar named Devchand while touring in this area, to sell his products, stopped at this place to spend 9 days of Navratri. He prayed to the goddess to fulfil his wish to have a child. One night he dreamt that goddess asked him to build the temple at the place where he had stopped. She also said that on waking up, he will find a coconut and a ‘chunri’ (a piece of red-coloured cloth). Goddess had given a specific command that after building the temple its doors should be shut for six months by which time she would establish herself therein. However, just before completion of 6 months, Devchand started hearing the celestial music after sunset and during the night. He could not wait and opened the doors of the temple. Not being able to take the form completely, the deity can be seen on her knees in the midst of her attempts to stand up as she appears today. 

Though I don’t really believe in these legends, but I always enjoy reading and learning about them as it gives insight to the minds of the devotees. Later we went to the dining hall for Prasadam and returned to Chadura to retire for the night.